Paperdoll Girls 2-6X 4 Tiered Sequin Skirt, Black, 5 Review
Paperdoll Girls 2-6X 4 Tiered Sequin Skirt, Black, 5 Feature
- Sequin detail
- Tiered detail
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Monday, April 16, 2012
Sunday, March 4, 2012
Loctite 1515861 Polyseamseal Tub and Tile Adhesive Caulk, 5.5-Ounce Tube, White
!±8± Loctite 1515861 Polyseamseal Tub and Tile Adhesive Caulk, 5.5-Ounce Tube, White
Provides a water-tight seal around sinks, tubs and other kitchen and bathroom fixtures. Contains mildewcide to fight unsightly mold and mildew growth. Can be used for installing backsplashes and repairing loose tiles. Flexible. Extrudes approximately 16.9ft. when using a 1/4" bead.
More Specification..!!
Friday, March 2, 2012
Dap 18546 Kwik Seal Plus Kitchen and Bath All-Purpose Adhesive Caulk Clear 5.5-Ounce
!±8± Dap 18546 Kwik Seal Plus Kitchen and Bath All-Purpose Adhesive Caulk Clear 5.5-Ounce
- The perfect seal starts with Kwik Seal Plus and ends with Dap
- Dap Cap?
- Mildew proof guarantee
- Crack proof guarantee
- Features this one-of-a-kind Dap Cap finishing tool and resealing cap
More Specification..!!
Dap 18546 Kwik Seal Plus Kitchen and Bath All-Purpose Adhesive Caulk Clear 5.5-Ounce
Wednesday, January 11, 2012
Learning How to Lay Ceramic Floor Tile the Right Way
Raring to start working on your own ceramic floor tile project? Get ready to learn the basics of how to lay ceramic floor tile right here and make that beautiful ceramic tile floor that you and your family have always wanted! So, get your tiling tools ready, put on your safety goggles and let's do some tiling!
Most tiling jobs start with a well-prepared subfloor. As you learn more about how to lay ceramic floor tile, you will find out about the three general types of floors that tile installers may often work with. Such information will help you alot along the way.
Generally, you will encounter three types of subfloors: Vinyl, plywood, and the concrete floors. Installing ceramic tile directly to vinyl or linoleum floors (or subfloor surfaces) should be avoided at all cost. Your vinyl or linoleum flooring may contain asbestos fibers and should be tested first before you try removing it. If your vinyl floor covering does not contain asbestos fibers, a general recommendation on how to lay ceramic floor tile is to rough-sand, or scarify, the vinyl floor surface to provide your tiling mortar a better grip. Use a latex modified thinset mortar to install your ceramic tiles over your vinyl subfloor.
Working over plywood subfloors can be very tricky, as well. Like vinyl floor surfaces, it is not advisable to install your ceramic tiles directly on to your plywood floor surface. Plywood flooring usually has a smooth surface, and easily warps when exposed to heat or moisture. Be sure that the wood is at least 1 and 1/8 inches thick and is reinforced and supported by an equally strong underlayment. Otherwise, your ceramic tiles will dislodge easily, or worse, break and need replacing. Plywood panel edges must be installed about one-fourth of an inch away from perimeter walls and door jambs, and fixtures and cabinetry. These are expansion gaps and should not be bridged with tiling mortar. To prevent moisture from damaging the plywood subfloor, use a waterproofing sealant or caulk over your plywood subsurface.
Concrete floors are the most ideal subfloor surface to work with. But before you start tiling over the subfloor surface, it must be cleaned thoroughly. Paint, adhesives, fillers or levelers, sealers, and chemically treated cement substrates are unsuitable surfaces fpr ceramic tile installations. Remove these by using non-chemical methods. For dust and other debris, sweep and then mop your concrete subfloor surface using only clean water. Allow the surface completely before you start working on it. Generally, smooth concrete surfaces are difficult to work with as the tiling mortar may not grip and hold. Consequently, your ceramic floor tiles may be in danger in dislodging. Smooth concrete surfaces must be rough sanded, scarified, or etched to allow the tiling mortar some grip.
Another important aspect about how to lay ceramic floor tile is to always check for cracks and debris. Repair as many of the cracks as you can. If you see cracks that are too large to repair, replace the floor section where they are found with new concrete. Concrete may need to set (or dry) for at least twenty-four hours before you can start tiling over it. Lastly, get out your carpenter's level and check for any dips or humps on the concrete subfloor surface. If you find any, you may use a cement-based floor level to fill in the dips and smoothen over the humps. This will help to keep your finished ceramic tile floor level and minimize dislodging, or tile breakage.
Let it dry or set properly. This is the key step you need to keep in mind about how to lay ceramic floor tile flooring. There are three setting periods: The first is right after you have placed your ceramic tiles with thin set mortar and bonded them to your subfloor. The second is after after putting in your tiling grout (before putting on the sealant). These setting periods last overnight, at the very least, to twenty-four hours, at the most. Your sealant has dried, you are done!
So when you work on your own ceramic tile project, always remember how to lay ceramic floor tile properly by knowing how to work with your subfloor surfaces. Learning how to lay ceramic floor tile is also both a great way both to learn a new hobby, and a home improvement skill. Just remember to keep a safe working environment, not to rush things (especially during setting periods), and try to work with at buddy. Better yet, get your friends over and help.
Monday, January 9, 2012
Installing a Bathroom Vanity
A quick and relatively inexpensive way to freshen the look of your bathroom is to replace the vanity. With a little planning, it can be finished in a day.
First and foremost, measure the space available and note them down. Measure your old vanity too, so that you could use it as a guide when trying to visualise how much bigger or smaller your new vanity will look.
After buying your new vanity, prepare the necessary tools required. Basically, they are adjustable wrenches, pry bar, utility knife, power drill, caulking gun, slip joint pliers, measuring tape, carpenter's level drywall screws, shims, hole saws and stud finder. If unsure or lacking any tools, visit your nearest hardware store and they can advise you. For personal safety, be equipped with safety goggles and face masks. Now, it is time to remove the old vanity.
Firstly, cut water supply by turning off the shut off valves for both cold and hot water supply. With an adjustable wrench, disconnect all supply tubes from the faucet bases. Next, place a pail below the sink trap and use a pair of adjustable pliers to remove the trap.
Secondly, remove the cabinet doors and drawers. Using a screwdriver or socket wrench, remove all the screws that were holding the vanity to the wall. They are usually in the corners or in a rail across the back of the vanity. To remove the top from the base, remove the screws or use a pry bar. Next, remove the basin and gently lift it out. This makes it easier to remove and handle the vanity top. Using a pry bar, remove the backsplash from the wall carefully. Now that the old vanity is out, inspect the area for any damages or rots and repair them before installing the new vanity.
To install the new vanity, locate the studs in the wall and make location marks on the wall. Decide where to position your new vanity and mark its position on the wall. Next, carefully measure the locations of the water pipes and drain lines and mark these pipe locations to the back of the vanity. Use a hole saw at least ½ inch larger than your pipe, and drill holes for the water lines.
Lay old blankets or rags on the floor to minimise floor damage. With someone's help, lift up the vanity into place and drill pilot holes in the back for mounting screws, making sure that the holes are aligned with the wall studs.
If your vanity has a built-in basin, install the faucets first by putting them into the pre-cut holes and then tighten them with a wrench. Attach the water supply lines to the faucets and the tail pipe to the sink drain. Finally, run a bead of adhesive caulk along all top edges of vanity cabinet and place the top on the vanity, making sure it is level and tightly against the wall.
However, if your sink is separate from the vanity top, install the countertop first, then the faucets and then put the sink into the countertop.
Finally, attach all the water supply lines to the supply valves and the sink trap to the drain lines. Run some caulk around the bases of the faucets and the seams where the edges of the backsplash meet the wall. Turn on the water and check for any leaks and you are done!
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